《宅人食堂》第三季跟着一条鳜鱼探寻徽州饮食与文化
时间:2018-01-09 17:00:28阅读:70745次来源:蜂鸟影院 1/5
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说起鳜鱼的名声大噪,还得拜那句“桃花流水鳜鱼肥”所赐,不然的话,不知道还有多少人仍在叫它jue鱼。鳜鱼肉质在三月最为鲜美,所以在古今文人食客的辞令中,它常和三月桃花作伴。万点桃花半尺鱼般的赞美,让鳜鱼显得无比可爱。
宋人罗愿的《尔雅翼》中还记有一种传说:如果渔翁钓到一条鳜的雄鱼,数条雌鱼都会舍身来救,"曳而不舍",因此,一条甚至能牵起十多条。听起来倒是一种重情义之鱼。
可是为人所不知的是,其实鳜鱼生性凶猛,并不可爱,黄身有黑斑,厚皮紧肉,夏天钻在石缝里。据说,它是鱼类中惟一像牛羊,"有肚能嚼"的,所以吃小鱼。是一种靠猎食其他鱼虾生存的肉食性鱼类。这么说来,本质上属于暗黑系的鳜鱼,可是一点儿都不小清新,徽菜里臭鳜鱼的做法,倒是和它的画风最能搭到一起。
深圳卫视治愈系美食纪录片老恒和《宅人食堂》第三季来到了徽菜的发源地徽州。在徽州,无论如何也绕不开的一道菜就是臭鳜鱼。臭鳜鱼又名窖香鳜鱼,是徽州传统名菜。平常菜肴,总要在舌头走上一遭才能留下印象。但臭鳜鱼不同,在入口甚至入眼之前,气味就已牢牢抓住食客的感官。其实闻着臭吃着香的重口味菜肴,在中国这片神奇的土地上并不少见,臭豆腐、折耳根、臭苋菅哪一个拿出来都可以说是让人爱恨交加。可是能靠着“臭”,成为菜系名角登堂入室的,臭鳜鱼其实还真算得上是个异数。
“搞臭”这条鲜肥鳜鱼,要从七八天前就开始。将粗粒海盐均匀撒入鱼腹和鱼鳃,用手指将海盐在鱼背及鱼身来回涂抹至冒汗状,使鱼肉可以完全吸收盐分,放入木桶,撒上花椒等小料予以调味,以青石压住封存,等鲜味在时光的催化下酿出臭气,臭鳜鱼,就功成一半了。
臭鳜鱼成为徽系名菜两百多年,一脉相承地臭着,没多大变化,不像很多菜品,在时光的长河里为了迎合八方食客,改良出很多版本。而在这一点上,臭鳜鱼可以说是整个徽菜菜系的缩影。
《宅人食堂》中的黄山双石和毛峰里脊,也同样都体现着徽菜的偏执与坚持。从食材到做法,都是古法,一板一眼,没有折衷,也没有改良,石耳和石鸡都取自黄山,毛峰采自徽地,连茶香入菜的奇思妙想也闪烁着徽商智慧。
徽菜的形成与江南古徽州独特的地理环境、人文环境、饮食习俗密切相关。绿树丛荫、沟壑纵横、气候宜人的徽州自然环境,为徽菜提供了取之不尽,用之不竭的徽菜原料。得天独厚的条件成为徽菜发展的有力物质保障。同时徽州名目繁多的风俗礼仪、时节活动,也有力地促进了徽菜的形成和发展。这些都给了徽菜坚持自己的底气与自信。香就香,臭就臭,都是徽地独有的味道,别的地方你还真吃不到。
也许,要想在中国这片美食如云的土地上站稳跟脚,光靠一个好吃还真不行,总得有点儿自己的特别与小性子。深圳卫视每周日晚21:00,《宅人食堂3》与你相约。
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